Kawasaki Teryx KRX Lift Guide | Manual Jack PRO

Kawasaki KRX Vehicle Lift Guide

Safely lift your Kawasaki KRX using the AGM Manual Jack PRO. Tested on a real vehicle during real trail repairs.

Estimated Read Time: 1–2 Minutes


Quick Answers

★★★★★ Preferred Rear Lift: Trailing arm just in front of the triangle gusset

★★★★★ Preferred Front Lift: Upper control arm below the lower shock bolt

★★★★☆ Alternate Rear: Rear chassis rail under the engine

★★★★☆ Stability Tip: Rotate the collar 90 degrees when the lift point angle requires it

Avoid: Unsupported skid plate areas, lower radius rod clearance issues, unstable ground, and poorly aligned lift points.


You're in the Right Place If...

• You have a flat tire on a Kawasaki KRX.

• You want the safest lift points.

• You're using an AGM Manual Jack PRO.

• You want to avoid damaging your vehicle.

• You want to get back on the trail quickly.


Flat Tire Repair

• The Kawasaki KRX lug nuts use a 17 mm socket.

• The AGM Manual Jack PRO uses a 19 mm or 3/4 inch socket, so carry both sockets.

• If using hand tools, loosen the lug nuts before lifting.

• Lift from the preferred lift point.

• Place a cooler, toolbox, spare tire, or similar size solid object under the vehicle as a secondary support.

• Remove the lug nuts, catching each one if possible.

• Watch for the washers behind the lug nuts so they do not disappear into the dirt.

• If a lug nut or washer falls into dirt or sand, clean it before reinstalling so threads are not damaged.

• Install the replacement wheel.

• Reinstall the washers and start every lug nut by hand.

• Tighten in a cross pattern.

• Torque to Kawasaki specifications whenever possible. If a torque wrench is not available, tighten with an impact gun to get you home.


Preferred Rear Lift

Lift Here

Trailing arm just forward of the triangle gusset.

Why

• Preferred rear lift point for the AGM Manual Jack PRO.

• Uses one of the flatter rear suspension surfaces on the KRX.

• The triangle gusset helps act as a stop for the lifting pad.

• Reduces the chance of the jack following the suspension inward as the vehicle rises.

Watch Out

• Keep the lifting pad on the flatter portion of the trailing arm.

• Avoid letting the lift point become a ramp as the vehicle rises.

• Rotate the collar 90 degrees to help keep the jack more rigid when needed.

Trail Tip

Try to keep the jack as vertical as possible during the lift so the pad stays flat against the arm.


Alternate Rear Lift

Lift Here

Rear chassis rail under the engine.

Why

• Useful if the trailing arm is not accessible.

• Provides a chassis-based rear lifting option.

• Allows access to rear suspension components during certain repairs.

Watch Out

• Sneak the jack in from underneath for faster access.

• Position the jack close to the rear radius rod.

• Make sure the suspension has room to move inward as the vehicle rises.

Trail Tip

Angle the pad toward the center of the vehicle so the handle clears nearby suspension parts as the lift gets tight.


Preferred Front Lift

Lift Here

Upper control arm directly below the lower shock bolt.

Why

• Preferred front lift point for the AGM Manual Jack PRO.

• Located near the flattest front suspension surface available.

• Allows the jack to move from a slightly angled position toward vertical.

• Creates a stable front lift when positioned correctly.

Watch Out

• Rotate the collar 90 degrees to reduce unwanted jack movement.

• Push the jack all the way in so the pad fully contacts the arm.

• Position the hook close to the lower arm for a second point of contact.

Trail Tip

Start with the jack slightly angled inward so it becomes more vertical as the vehicle rises.


Common Mistakes

• Lifting from unsupported skid plate areas.

• Letting the rear lift point become a ramp as the vehicle rises.

• Forgetting to rotate the collar when the lift point angle requires it.

• Positioning the rear chassis lift too far from the radius rod.

• Starting lug nuts with an impact.

• Crawling under a vehicle supported only by a jack.


Trail Safety Checklist

✓ Move off the trail whenever possible.

✓ Park on level ground.

✓ Vehicle in Park.

✓ Four-wheel drive engaged if needed.

✓ Chock a tire if necessary.

✓ Use a secondary support before putting any part of your body underneath the vehicle.


Questions We Hear Most

Where should I lift a Kawasaki KRX with a Manual Jack PRO?

For most repairs, use the rear trailing arm and the front upper control arm.

What is the best rear lift point on a Kawasaki KRX?

The preferred rear lift point is the trailing arm just forward of the triangle gusset.

What is the best front lift point on a Kawasaki KRX?

The preferred front lift point is the upper control arm directly below the lower shock bolt.

Why rotate the collar on the Manual Jack PRO?

Rotating the collar can help control the jack's pivot direction and keep the jack more stable as the suspension moves.

Can I lift the rear of a Kawasaki KRX from the chassis?

Yes. The rear chassis rail under the engine can be used as an alternate rear lift point when the trailing arm is not accessible.

What socket sizes do I need for a Kawasaki KRX tire change?

The KRX lug nuts use a 17 mm socket, while the AGM Manual Jack PRO uses a 19 mm or 3/4 inch socket.

How do I safely lift a Kawasaki KRX on the trail?

Move to flat ground whenever possible, use the recommended lift points, chock a tire, and use a secondary support if you may need to work underneath the vehicle.


Continue Learning

Watch

▶ Watch the Kawasaki KRX Lift Video


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